Chester

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The sandals of centurions, the tread of Tudors, the silent feet of ghosts. Oh, and shopping.

I’m patrolling the ancient walls of Deva, a far-flung outpost of Imperial Rome. Not in a toga, but in my holiday togs. Because to use its present day name this is Chester, just across the border from Wales. And, apparently, an ancient law makes it illegal for Welshmen to enter the city after nightfall… though it’s worth risking it because this is a fascinating place at any time of day. Up on the ramparts, I was very impressed by the most complete Roman defensive ring of stone in England. The walls completely encircle the city centre, and have metal panels at various points that tell captivating stories about that particular part of the route. Just in case you’re wondering, they’re not in Latin. They were put up by the council, not the proconsul. And as I stroll along I realise the walls are a handy way of learning more about this intriguing city and getting around without being knocked down by chariot – sorry, bicycle.

“It was a bright midmorning as I took this walk into the past, but I’m told it’s even more atmospheric after dark. Provided you don’t bump into one of the many ghosts that have garrisoned themselves in these parts. Chester is said to be one of the most haunted cities in the country, and I could easily imagine being confronted by a spectral centurion keeping an eternally loyal vigil on the battlements. So it’s probably a good thing that there are many points where you can come down off the wall and into the busy streets. And what wonderful streets they are, with an eclectic mix of architecture from the middle ages to the modern, and pretty much everything in between.”

Like the grandly imposing Georgian manor house known, quaintly, as Oddfellows Hall.  But take my word for it, once inside this is about as up-to-date as it gets, because Oddfellows is Chester’s most happening new ‘open house’ club. A place dedicated to the fine arts of eating, drinking and all round enjoying. The décor is completely mad, blending original features with quirky styling touches. Nothing matches, but all the same it seems to work. In their brasserie, I discovered there’s a lot more to Cheshire than cheese as I put away a delicious lunch and relaxed with a glass of chilled champagne. Bit decadent, I know, but I was in the mood. I could understand why Caesar’s cronies wanted to keep the barbarians at bay with their walls, but it hasn’t stopped visitors from coming to experience this enchanting city and surrounding lush countryside over the past two millennia.